Shafts, Lies and The Cleveland TA6

Hi everyone and thanks for stopping by. SirPutts has been busy with email so I thought we'd have a look at what he's been up to!  Cleveland TA6 – Have you a review of those?  An opinion? As far as I recall we never did have a review of these irons. They were out right …

Hi everyone and thanks for stopping by. SirPutts has been busy with email so I thought we'd have a look at what he's been up to! 

Cleveland TA6 – Have you a review of those?  An opinion?

As far as I recall we never did have a review of these irons. They were out right around the time we were getting the website started so there is a good chance they just got lost in the mix when we started writing club reviews.

I was a big fan of these clubs. They were solid all around and for a great price. Good forgiveness, decent feel, not too big, and still a little bit of control compared with many of the "game improvement" style clubs.

I don't know how many of these sets are still around but if you can find one they are definitely worth a look.

I have M.A.S.2 7-65 stiff graphite in my R7 quad. I have a 6 handicap and hit the ball 240yards carry,270-280 with roll. I have no trouble keeping the same shot shape, however I think that I am fighting the shaft. My swing speed is around 115mph,regular shafts go high and the ball just does not roll. Is there a shaft between a regular and a stiff that might suit me?

Unfortunately the best advice I can give you would be to get on a launch monitor. If you have a clubhead speed of 115 mph you should be carrying the ball well over 240 yards. This would mean that either your trajectory or spin rates are way off. I think a launch monitor will give you the best direction as far as what shaft and loft to use in your driver.
 
As for different shaft stiffness, you can make a regular shaft stiffer by tip trimming it. Alternatively, different types of shafts will produce different ball flights. Eg. a shaft like the Aldila NV is lower in torque and has a higher kickpoint, a regular flex in the NV will hit the ball lower than a regular flex in the MAS2. Again this is where a launch monitor can come in handy to give you a proper fitting.
 
You are correct that a more flexible shaft will also hit the ball higher. Hope this isn't too confusing.

I understand the importance of adjusting the lie angles on your irons–hey, even your putter sometimes. But why is this not the case for drivers and fairway woods..even hybrids? My irons have a 1-degree flat lie angle. I stand 5'8" tall and when I address the ball with my driver, the face is at a steep angle, as opposed to a slight angle. What issues could this result in regarding ball flight/patterns? I draw my irons, yet fade my driver. Is the lie angle of my driver a culprit?

There are two main reasons. 1. The longer a golf club is the less impact the lie angle will have on the flight of the golf ball. 2. Woods, drivers, and hybrids are all more rounded on the sole than irons which tend to be more square on the bottom. This will further minimize the impact that the lie angle will have.

With your driver the toe should be slightly off the ground at address. If it is really far off the ground this could result in you hooking the ball, not slicing. I would suggest that the fade with your driver is either a result of your driver swing, a shaft that is too stiff, or the driver simply being too long.

My first solution for you would be to try cutting your driver down by 1/2" or 1" and see if this helps. (This should also help correct the lie angle)

SirShanksAlot Adds… clubs with more loft are more affected by improper lie. A wedge that is too flat/upright will hit it more offline than a driver or fairway wood. Be sure you get a few different irons checked for lie. Your longer irons may not need adjustment but you shorter ones could be off enough to warrant a tweak.